DIFFERNCE BETWEEN STILES AND RAILS HOW TO

Overall the wood failed before the joints. M&T with wood glue against double biscuits with gorilla glue. Some years ago a couple of fellows managed to get access to Los Alamos to stress.test joints used on house doors. Done properly it is stronger than the wood itself. But it does vastly increase the long grain to long grain gluing surface. Pillog- close, a m&t has now chancel advantage such as dovetails give.

DIFFERNCE BETWEEN STILES AND RAILS HOW TO

Worry about how to jig it to stay square to ensure a proper joint. Just do careful work and don't over tighten your clamps. Trust those who have gone before, IOW don't reinvent the wheel. Everything depends on the glue joint between rails and stiles.įive panel doors exist that are centuries old. Top rail is in tension, buy with hinges set down from top and bottom it gets offset, bottom compressive load compensate. The load bears on the hinges, translate to the stile, bottom joint of rail to that stile is in compression, it wants to close. There is nothing gained by gluing one side of the panel. I'm really not trying to be difficult, just trying to reconcile new things I'm learning with other things I thought I had learned :>)

Certainly it could be a waste of time and effort but the concept seems ok with what I THINK I understand about wood at this point. Seems like that would still allow the panel to expand in three directions since only one of four sides would be held stationary. I guess the only thing I'm still curious about is gluing only a left side of the panel. It has 'Kumaru' stamped on the back of it. It's not really teak but a common name is Brazillian Teak. It does have a spicey aroma but I haven't seen the 'Cabbage Bark' name associated with this stuff. Yes, I guess this project would have been easier had I gone with a standard wood but I bought it from a guy who overbought. I had wondered about taping areas I wanted to be clean so the specifics on that are also great. I hadn't previously heard the tip about glue on butt ends being useless. I just finished running the stiles through the router and I'm doing mortise/tenon joints.

It was a last-minute concern so the quick advice has been very helpful. OOps, now I'm the one who's behind! Again, thanks for all the helpful comments. This post was edited by ctycdm on Fri, Oct 3, 14 at 16:40

Gorrlliia glue is good but also messy, Titebond II works well, but if the wood is very oily like Teak, you might want to use a powdered aliphatic resin glue and mix it.Īre you doing mortise and tenon, or dowel joints? I'm a slow typer, just saw the other responses ) If you are really concerned about shear, make your bottom rail a bit wider, a very classic look on lots of old furniture and cabinetry, as well as how all passage and entry doors are made. While your wood may be heavy, so is a solid Oak or Walnut raised or recessed panel entry door which relies on the same basic stile and rail construction. You are over thinking a basic door construction that is tried and true and been around a lot longer than either of us. Yes, and if that panel is tight and glued to the stile, when it expands it can and will likely blow apart the stile/rail joint, regardless if it is doweled or mortise and tenon. 'Isn't it true that most/all of the expansion will be in the cross-grain direction?'

Differnce between stiles and rails